Introduction
For centuries, the world has cherished chocolate without fully appreciating the remarkable diversity of the cacao plant that makes it possible. Traditionally, cacao has been classified into two main varieties: Criollo and Forastero. Later, a hybrid known as Trinitario was added, creating a trio that became the cornerstone of the cacao industry. However, advances in genetic research and a deeper understanding of cacao’s history have begun to challenge this simplistic paradigm, unveiling a complex mosaic of varieties that resist easy categorization. This article delves into the traditional framework of cacao classification, its limitations, and the scientific breakthroughs reshaping our perception of cacao diversity.
The Traditional Classification of Cacao
Criollo
Criollo, meaning "native" in Spanish, is often regarded as the original domesticated cacao variety. Cultivated by ancient civilizations such as the Olmecs, Mayans, and Aztecs, Criollo dominated cacao cultivation and chocolate production until the 18th century when Venezuela emerged as a leading producer. Its beans were the foundation of the rich, complex chocolate beverages revered in pre-Columbian and colonial societies.
Botanical Characteristics:
Pods: Elongated with pronounced ridges and occasionally warty surfaces.
Colors: Highly variable, ranging from purple/violet to red-orange, green, and yellow.
Beans: Pale to nearly white, due to the absence of anthocyanins (the pigments responsible for purple hues in red wines).
Renowned for its refined aroma and flavor, Criollo cacao is often described as creamy, nutty, and buttery, with minimal bitterness or astringency. These attributes contribute to its status as the gold standard for fine flavor cacao. However, Criollo's delicate nature, susceptibility to diseases, and low yield have rendered it nearly extinct in modern agriculture, accounting for less than 1% of global cacao production. Today, pure Criollo trees are exceedingly rare, and its legacy persists mainly through hybridization.
Forastero
Forastero, translating to "foreigner," originates from the Amazon basin. Its introduction to Criollo-growing regions was driven by its robust nature and higher productivity, traits that made it a preferred choice for large-scale cultivation. The Portuguese played a pivotal role in expanding its production in Brazil and their African colonies, solidifying Forastero’s position as the backbone of the global cacao industry.
Botanical Characteristics:
Pods: Rounded and smooth, with little to no ridges.
Colors: Generally yellow when ripe.
Beans: Deep purple, rich in anthocyanins.
Often considered the workhorse of cacao, Forastero dominates global production due to its resilience and adaptability. While frequently associated with a robust and basic "chocolatey" flavor, marked by pronounced bitterness and astringency, Forastero’s potential is far greater. In recent years, Brazilian chocolate makers have championed single-origin Forastero, crafting chocolate bars that challenge preconceived notions and reveal the variety’s unexpected complexity. This shift highlights the importance of cultivation practices and post-harvest processes in unlocking the full potential of Forastero cacao.
Trinitario
Trinitario emerged in the 18th century on the island of Trinidad. After a disease outbreak decimated Criollo crops, Forastero varieties were introduced, resulting in natural hybridization. This created a new variety that combined the desirable flavors of Criollo with the resilience of Forastero.
Botanical characteristics:
A mix of Criollo and Forastero traits, with significant variation in pod shape and color.
Flavor Profile:
Balanced, complex, and diverse, widely based on origin, cultivation practices, and post-harvest methods.
Today, Trinitario is celebrated as a fine-flavor cacao variety, that combines the desirable flavors of Criollo with the hardiness and higher yields of Forastero. However, its genetic and sensory profiles remain far from uniform.
Challenging the Paradigm: The Emergence of Nacional and Beyond
Nacional
Despite the established trio, there has always been a "fourth wheel" in the cacao paradigm also known as Arriba Nacional, from Ecuador.
Characteristics:
Flavor Profile: Distinctive floral and fruity notes, often described as jasmine-like.
Historical Classification: Despite being classified as Forastero due to genetic similarities, its flavor profile aligns more closely with Trinitario. DNA analysis has cemented Nacional’s place as fine flavor cacao, distinct from Criollo and Forastero. Its hallmark floral and fruity notes have earned it global acclaim, though its genetic purity has been significantly eroded over time, leaving only a fraction of true Nacional trees intact.
Nacional’s unique qualities challenge the rigidity of the three-variety model and highlight the need for a more inclusive classification system.
Breaking the Paradigm: Advances in Genetic Research
The long-held belief in a clear-cut division of cacao into Criollo, Forastero, and Trinitario is increasingly seen as outdated. Modern genetic research has dismantled this simplistic framework, revealing a more intricate mosaic of cacao's extraordinary biodiversity. This shift toward a biodiversity paradigm acknowledges cacao as a species shaped by natural evolution, human intervention, and hybridization over centuries.
Key Factors Leading to the Shift
Interfertility and Hybridization: Criollo and Forastero are interfertile, resulting in widespread natural hybridization. Continuous crossbreeding has blurred the lines between the two, making pure Criollo nearly extinct.
Historical Oversimplification: The traditional classification was based on limited botanical and morphological observations, such as pod shape and seed color, without the benefit of genetic insights. Studies in regions like Guyana have uncovered cacao populations that defy traditional classifications, expanding the understanding of cacao biodiversity.
Reassessing Origins: The upper Amazon basin, particularly the convergence of the Napo, Caquetá, and Putumayo rivers, is confirmed as the primary center of origin for Theobroma cacao. This region’s extraordinary genetic diversity underscores the need to shift from a rigid classification system to a biodiversity paradigm.
Advancements in DNA Analysis
In a landmark study published in 2008 by Motamayor et al., researchers employed DNA analysis to identify ten distinct genetic clusters or "ancestral varieties" that represent the foundation of cacao's diversity. These clusters include:
Marañon: Found in the Peruvian Andes, this cluster is celebrated for its high genetic diversity and key role in fine-flavor cacao production. Marañon is associated with exceptional aromatic profiles that elevate its status among fine-flavor categories.
Curaray: A variety native to Ecuador, thriving in unique ecosystems and contributing to regional biodiversity. Known for its adaptability, Curaray underscores the resilience of cacao in diverse environments.
Criollo: Renowned for its delicate flavor and pale seeds, Criollo is considered a genetic and cultural icon, though its presence is increasingly rare due to susceptibility to disease and low yields. The term “Criollo Actuales” refers to hybridized Criollo varieties prevalent in regions like coastal Venezuela, where interbreeding with other types has enhanced yield and resistance while retaining some of Criollo's flavor attributes.
Iquitos: Originating from the Peruvian Amazon, this cluster exemplifies the genetic adaptability of cacao and reflects the biodiversity of its native region.
Nanay: Another Peruvian genetic group, Nanay is recognized for its distinctive traits that enhance cacao diversity, making it an important resource for breeding programs.
Contamana: Native to Peru, this cluster is prized for its natural resistance to diseases like witches’ broom, making it valuable in conservation and cultivation.
Amelonado: Widely cultivated and originating in Brazil, Amelonado is foundational to bulk cacao production. Historical sources identify Pará as its specific region of origin. When grown and processed carefully, it can yield surprising complexity and quality.
Purús: A lesser-known cluster from the Brazilian and Peruvian Amazon, contributing to the genetic mosaic of cacao while being largely unexplored for commercial purposes.
Nacional: This iconic Ecuadorian cluster is famous for its floral and fruity aroma, although its genetic purity has been significantly eroded over time due to hybridization. Key collections like those at the Pichilingue Tropical Experimental Station aim to preserve Nacional’s unique traits.
Guiana: Indigenous to the Guianas, Guiana is genetically linked to Amelonado but retains unique regional characteristics that make it a distinct group.
Each of these genetic clusters represents a unique evolutionary lineage and highlights the vast complexity of cacao as a species. They challenge the traditional paradigm, which failed to account for the intricate genetic, environmental, and historical factors that shaped cacao's current diversity.
Reevaluating Subspecies
Historically, Criollo and Forastero were classified as two distinct subspecies of Theobroma cacao: Theobroma cacao cacao and Theobroma cacao sphaerocarpum. This dichotomy was rooted in morphological traits and historical cultivation patterns rather than genetic evidence. Modern DNA analysis has debunked this division, revealing cacao as a single species with extraordinary genetic diversity. Rather than subspecies, cacao is now understood to comprise multiple genetic groups, each with unique traits that underscore the complexity of its biodiversity.
Implications for the Industry
The paradigm shift towards recognizing cacao’s biodiversity has significant implications:
Conservation Efforts: Protecting wild populations and heirloom varieties is critical for preserving genetic diversity. This is especially pressing in regions where cacao's genetic wealth is threatened by deforestation and climate change.
Cultivation Innovations: Genetic insights can guide the development of disease-resistant and climate-adaptable cultivars. These efforts enhance both resilience and flavor potential, ensuring cacao’s future viability.
Market Differentiation: A broader recognition of cacao diversity allows chocolate makers to craft origin-specific products with unique profiles, appealing to a growing market of discerning consumers seeking authenticity.
Conclusion
The era of the three-variety model is over. As we embrace cacao’s biodiversity, we open the door to new possibilities in cultivation, production, and appreciation. This paradigm shift enhances the chocolate industry and fosters a deeper respect for the plant’s complexity and cultural significance.
The question is not whether we should adopt the biodiversity paradigm, but how quickly we can adapt to this new understanding and ensure its benefits are shared across the entire value chain.
Photo Credits: Andrii Grechanyi.
Comments